Old Friends-New Places

My dear friend Kim Moreno is 1/6th of the Fab Fems, who are also known as the Slumber Sisters. We have all been "no-holds-barred" friends since high school, and in the case of Sue Eiler, since about 5th grade. My "sisters" know the worst about me, yet they still love me.

Twice a year on pre-set weekends we have an extended "sleep-over" at one of our homes or in a place where we can have an adventure. This November we're renting three great cottages at the Victorian Centrella Hotel in downtown Pacific Grove. We'll gab all night, eat too much, and spend too much time trying to decide where we want to go, but we will have a ball together. My hope is that when I am checking out of this life my "sisters" will be there rooting for me.

Now back to Kim, who is an indescribable personality and over-achiever. She is just getting her doctorate, and we are all proud of her. When Kim found out that we were planning a trip to Italy, her mouth dropped open because we would be there at the same time she and Ralph (her adorable husband) were there.

Lucca by night

So we set up a rendezvous spot in the incredibly beautiful town of Lucca, which is a walled city (actually surrounded by three ancient walls) in Tuscany. I had high hopes that we would be able to pull it off, but I wasn't sure how we could connect and all hit the target at the same time.

Kim told us to meet them "at the Santa Maria Plaza entrance to the city between 8 and 9." We hustled out of our room, which was on the opposite side of Lucca, and trekked over to a bistro where we could munch a croissant, drink coffee, and keep a look-out for them. When they didn't show up, I tried to call them on their cell, but it didn't connect. I was disappointed and felt sure we wouldn't meet, but just as I lost all hope, the phone rang. "WHERE ARE YOU?" Kim asked. Jeff answered, "Exactly where you told us to be."

Kim and Ralph were on the opposite side of Lucca (a block from where we'd started). We set up another meeting place. We came together like a confluence of four rivers, bubbling, laughing, shouting, jumping up and down and hugging each other. It felt so great to see friends half a world away from home.

Although we had talked about bike riding the ramparts (wide wall encircling the city has a pedestrian and bike friendly road), we ended up gabbing, walking aimlessly from one place to another (because we couldn't stop talking), and we did manage to visit a few high spots.

Kim says, "You guys will love this place!"

Kim is off to the next find while Ralph and I linger at the market

One "MUST VISIT" for me was the home of Puccini, who composed some of my favorite music La Boheme, Madame Butterfly, etc. .We found his home and Ralph, Jeff, and Kim stood by as I kissed his door. Wow, he might have actually touched exactly where I planted my lips.

Puccini's home with Ralph and Kim

I plant my lips

Kim and Giacomo

After Kim and Ralph left for Pisa, we rented bikes and rode the ramparts. It was beyond lovely looking down into gardens, a moat, an arboretum, and riding through whirling clouds of golden autumn leaves.

Tree lined rampart where we biked the two mile loop around Lucca

View from rampart into backyard gardens

Humble backyard garden

Moat at base of inner city wall

Memories are woven of love, laughter, old friends, and new adventures.

Our favorite cafe in Lucca

Opera Caffe Bistro

The most beautiful drink ever seen

A simple supper

May your memories be as golden as Lucca leaves,

Sharon

Knock Knock-Who's There?

We trudged through the cities and villages armed with my friend Alexa Barre's invaluable maps and critiques of the best restaurants and Rick Steves' Guide to Italy 2009-and what did I focus on? Door knockers. I love them. They are so enticing and can be indicative of an area or the people who live inside–wondering what those two suspicious Americans are doing lurking outside their door.

Vernazza, Cinque Terre

Lucca

A close up

Castiglione del Lago

Montefalco

Amelia

Amelia

Amelia

Magliano Sabina

Teaser for the next blog entry. What is Sharon doing? (This is from Jeff)

Buona notte!

Sharon

A Walled Village in the Heart of Italy

OK, I'll admit it. I've been lax about writing, but I'll try to do better. Yesterday I received three e-mails from readers who had checked my blog and wondered what is going on.

I did rewrites and answered queries until 8:47 p.m. on the night before we left for Italy. By the time I collapsed into my Alitalia seat (which wasn't bad!), I was ready to hibernate. But you can't hibernate in beautiful Italy.

I was overwhelmed by the richness and diversity and tended to feel best in the picturesque walled and hilltop villages. We hiked, climbed thousands of steps, ate too much good food (as my Tennessee friend said, "too much is not enough"), and saw art work that I had studied in college, but never dreamed I would see in person.

Every day I'll post a few pictures and a few thoughts about Italy, Maine, our wonderful new stone fireplace, Damariscotta, and our trip across the vast United States (hint-we visited the 60 year home of Laura Ingalls Wilder and the Pasadena home of Julia Child). More to come!

My favorite town was a small walled village called Castiglione del Lago on Lake Trasimeno in Umbria.

View of Lake Trasimeno from Castle (fortress) of the Lion, Castello del Lione

One of many small markets in Castiglione del Lago.

For my birthday, it was my dream to throw open a window and gaze out on a beautiful countryside and lake (a la Enchanted April). We stayed in this peaceful village for a total of 7 days and my dream came true.

View from our room at Hotel Miralago on my birthday.

We made friends with Maurizio and his wife Josefina (chef extraordinaire), who own and operate Ristorante Monna Lisa (Monna is correct!).

Josefina in the center with her two helpers.

We ate there many times and were treated with such an open-hearted embrace that we always felt like we were sitting in their home. Their meals are incomparable and their style is fresh and classic.

We stayed at Hotel Miralago the first time we visited the village.

Hotel Miralago (rose colored building) is in the town square.

Sharon (in red) in town square in front of tourist information office.

It was elegant (ask for a room with a lake view) and served a good breakfast, but once we walked down the cobbled street and turned the corner to the gardens and walled tower of Il Torrione, we knew we had to spend time there. In this intimate yet private B&B, we were served breakfast right outside our room in the midst of their beautiful little garden and tower rose garden. Franco and Karen were perfect hosts, and you will not regret a moment of your time in their welcoming inn.

Entrance to Il Torrione B & B is down a small alley inside the walled town.

Il Torrione means The Tower.

Garden leading to the steps of the tower.

View from Il Torrione.

Until tomorrow,

Sharon

September Song

September is a bittersweet time of year for me. Our months on the island will soon be over and it feels as though we've just arrived. This year is especially difficult. Not only does it feel as though we've just arrived, it feels as though summer has just arrived. We are finally having the clear and sparkling days I've longed for–and I am leaving for Italy in the middle of the best days of the season.

I love to travel and yet I don't like leaving. I think of all the reasons why we shouldn't leave, and then I think of the new roads, new friends, new villages, new food, museums, and wonderful outdoor markets, yet still, I return to the fact that I am totally content to be here in Maine.

To make my separation anxiety even greater, our life has been filled with bits and pieces of nature as colorful and lively as a patchwork quilt. Morning breakfast on the porch is loon time. "Oof, ooof, oof," they bark softly, and I'll admit that we go out on the ledge and call back to them. Later, we hear their heart rending calls to each other when they're separated.

Dragonflies and damselflies are everywhere, and yesterday when we were out paddling in our canoe, we had them landing on us to sun themselves. Painted turtles visited, a great blue heron posed for us, and on a nearby shore we spotted a brilliant patch of Cardinal flower. Maine memories stitched into my heart.

Last week I was ALMOST feeling ready to travel and the gulls jarred me out of my reveries. They circled above a commotion of mackerel that were being chased by harbor seals and leaping porpoise. "How can we leave this?" I asked Jeff. "I don't know, but we ARE, we've paid for the tickets!"

Our good friends Bonny and Lee will be here to fill the hummingbird bottle and the bird feeder. They'll water plants, spend time watching the sea from our old porch rockers, lie in bed with the long path of moonshine glimmering on the walls, and gather stories about summer in Maine to share with us when we return.

Until then, we're off to Italy! One of my best girlfriends in the world (since Jr. high) will be there with her husband, and we're planning to meet and have some adventures together.

You won't hear from me until the beginning of October, but I will still enjoy hearing from YOU. I've loved the long, newsy e-mails from you and treasure your comments.

Ciao!

Sharon